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Cutting force is the pressure behind the blade. On a plotter it is usually shown in grams. Get it wrong and either the sticker will not weed, or the liner is sliced and the job is wasted.
This guide from Skycut India explains what cutting force does, how to set it by material, and when a high-force machine such as the D Series is worth buying. Vinyl settings in general are in cutting vinyl. Reflective film is in radium cutting.
Quick answer
- Cutting force = how hard the blade presses (shown in grams).
- Set depth first, then raise force until a test cut weeds cleanly.
- Thin vinyl: lower force. Radium / thick card: higher force, slower speed.
- High range: Skycut D24 / D48 up to 2000 g.
What cutting force is
The plotter pushes the blade into the sheet. That push is cutting force. More force digs deeper. Less force skims the surface. Blade angle, blade sharpness and speed all change how that force feels on the material, so two shops can use different numbers on the same film and both be right.
Force is not the same as blade depth. Depth is how far the tip sticks out of the holder. Force is how hard the head presses. Fix depth so the tip reaches the adhesive, then use force to finish a clean kiss cut.
Why force matters
- Too low: letters stay stuck. Weeding tears the design.
- Too high: the liner is cut, the film buckles, or corners chew.
- On thick film: a light machine may run out of usable force before the cut is deep enough.
- On thin vinyl: extra force is wasted and shortens blade life.
Force by material
| Material | Force starting point | Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Thin sign vinyl | Low | 45° blade, medium speed |
| Printed sticker sheets | Low to medium | Camera contour still needs a clean kiss cut |
| Engineering-grade radium | Higher than vinyl | Sharp blade; see radium cutting |
| Thick / high-intensity film | High, or two lighter passes | Often a 60° blade and slower speed |
| Heavy card (through-cut) | High | Different from a vinyl kiss cut; may need crease and cut |
These are relative starting points, not fixed gram numbers. Brands and humidity change the result. Always test a new roll.
How to set cutting force
Fit a sharp blade at the right depth
The tip should kiss-cut the face. A long or dull blade wastes cutting force.
Start with low force
Run a small test shape. If it will not weed, raise force in small steps.
Check the liner
A light mark is fine. A cut-through means reduce blade depth first, then force.
Slow down on thick film
High force with high speed can tear corners. Lower the speed before you push force to the limit.
Use a second pass when needed
Two lighter passes often beat one extreme force setting on radium and thick card.
Thick film not cutting cleanly?
Tell us the material and how many jobs you do a day. We will suggest a Skycut model with enough cutting force and share the price.
Machines and max force
| Work | Skycut fit |
|---|---|
| Everyday vinyl names and logos | V24 |
| All-day cutting, including regular radium | VH-24 / VH-48 |
| Thick film, high force, dual heads | D24 / D48 (up to 2000 g) |
| Sheet stickers and small cartons | A3 Max 5 |
Maximum force on the label is the ceiling, not the setting you use every day. Most vinyl jobs sit well below the D Series limit. Buy that ceiling when thick media is a regular order, not a rare sample.
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Common mistakes
| What you see | What to change |
|---|---|
| Letters will not weed | Raise force slightly, or check blade depth and sharpness |
| Liner is cut through | Reduce blade depth first, then lower force |
| Corners tear at high force | Slow the speed and fit a fresh blade |
| Film shifts under the knife | Lower force and use two lighter passes |
| Max force still fails | Wrong blade angle, dull tip, or material that needs the D Series |
Frequently asked questions
Final thoughts
Set cutting force with a test cut, not with the highest number on the panel. Depth first, force second, and a second pass when the film is thick. For everyday vinyl use the V24 or VH Series. When the job needs up to 2000 g, choose the D24 or D48.
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